Deep Cut Guide

Bear Lake Trailheads

17 routes · Biotite schist · 9,602 ft

Help locate these routes: survey the wall

What's here

5.5 to 5.14, mostly around 5.12.

  1. 1 5.5
  2. 3 5.7
  3. 3 5.8
  4. 1 5.10
  5. 1 5.11
  6. 4 5.12
  7. 1 5.14

Counted from the 14 climbs here that carry a grade. Shown only where there are at least 5 of them — below that the shape is noise.

How well located

Base placed (one source) 2  Position on wall known 15 

The order of the climbs along this wall is known from the open catalogue, so a few surveys go a long way: standing at Dingleberry Crack, Grizzly (2 climbs, about 60 seconds on Bear's Den) would place up to 3 more climbs between them. Survey the wall →

“Up to” because the estimate between two surveyed routes is only used when they turn out to be close enough together on the ground.

Rock, from the geologic map

Biotite schist — metamorphic. Paleoproterozoic, about 2,500 to 1,600 million years old.

Conspicuously banded rock marked by alternating layers of contrasting composition; dark-gray to black, medium- to coarse-grained layers are rich in biotite, sillimanite, and magnetite; light- to medium-gray or bluish-gray, fine-grained layers contain more quartz and feldspar than biotite; white, coarse-grained layers consist of quartz and feldspar and minor biotite. Weathers to mottled reddish or yellowish brown. Layering is typically folded into moderate warps and tight flexures and isoclines. Protolith consisted of alternating beds of shale, siltstone, and sandstone. Regional metamorphism at about 1,700 Ma (Peterman and others, 1968, p. 2284) produced characteristic mineral assemblages that vary across the region depending on maximum local temperature and pressure. Northeast of the North Fork Big Thompson River, maximum temperature of metamorphism was as low as 525 degrees C (J.W. Drexler, oral commun., 1986), partial melting was not initiated (migmatite is absent), and the typical prograde assemblage consists of quartz, plagioclase, lepidoblastic muscovite, biotite, staurolite, andalusite, and iron oxides. Throughout most of map area, peak temperatures probably exceeded 700 degrees C (Nesse, 1977, 1984), anatectic melting was widespread (migmatite is ubiquitous), and typical mineral assemblage contains quartz, plagioclase, microcline, sillimanite, biotite, +/- garnet, +/- cordierite, hercynite, and iron oxides. Presence of garnet (rare) and (or) cordierite depends on local bulk composition; prograde cordierite appears to have formed by reactions of the type: biotite + sillimanite = cordierite + anatectic melt. Mineral changes between the lower and higher temperature regions are shown by the red dashed-line boundaries: sillimanite is present west of the S boundary, whereas staurolite and andalusite disappear near this boundary; microcline appears and lepidoblastic muscovite disappears at the K boundary; migmatite appears south and west of the M boundary; cordierite is present south and east of an unmapped, broad zone that extends from Eagle Rock (north of Estes Park) through Beaver Meadows, Mount Wuh, Ptarmigan Mountain, and southwestward to the east end of Granby Reservoir. GRI Source Map ID 141 (I-1973). ** Areas where numerous sills, dikes, or irregular bodies of Silver Plume Granite (Ysp) intrude biotite schist (Xs) [indicated by stippled regions on source paper map]. Areas that contain numerous conformable layers of pegmatite (YXp) [indicated by crossed regions on source paper map].

This is the map unit under this crag's map point, read from the 1:100,000 sheet (National Park Service Geologic Resources Evaluation program, 2006, National Park Service). The point can be a few hundred metres from the rock, a cliff often stands on the line between two units, and at that scale a line on the map is about 100 m wide on the ground, so the wall itself may be the neighbouring unit. Every crag on this unit: Biotite schist. Geology data: Macrostrat (CC BY 4.0), serving USGS and Colorado Geological Survey maps.

On the map since 1915

The USGS has mapped this ground since 1915. 29 historical sheets cover this crag's map point; the oldest is below.

Thumbnail of the 1915 USGS sheet covering Bear Lake Trailheads
USGS 1:125000-scale Quadrangle for Longs Peak, CO 1915 · U.S. Geological Survey · 1915 · 1:125,000 sheet
USGS Historical Topographic Map Collection · Public domain · the record · placed by its coordinates
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Public domain, U.S. Geological Survey. The sheet shows the ground as the survey found it then, which is why a trail or road you know may be missing. Every sheet over this point, 1915 to 1984: USGS topoView.

Photographs near this crag

Taken within 1.5 km of this crag's map point and published under a licence that lets us show them, from Wikimedia Commons. The coordinates say where the camera was, not what it was pointed at, so some of these will be the creek or the trail rather than the rock.

Bear Lake (6281202342) · Greg Willis from Denver, CO, usa · 2011 · 200 m from the crag's map point
Wikimedia Commons · CC BY-SA · the record · placed by its coordinates
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Bear Lake to Dream Lake (12867011013) · KimonBerlin · 2014 · 209 m from the crag's map point
Wikimedia Commons · CC BY-SA · the record · placed by its coordinates
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Rocky Mountain National Park (32757420887) · Nicolas Henderson from Coppell, Texas · 2018 · 223 m from the crag's map point
Wikimedia Commons · CC BY · the record · placed by its coordinates
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Bear Lake to Dream Lake (12866932465) · KimonBerlin · 2014 · 231 m from the crag's map point
Wikimedia Commons · CC BY-SA · the record · placed by its coordinates
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Bear Lake to Dream Lake (12867019413) · KimonBerlin · 2014 · 255 m from the crag's map point
Wikimedia Commons · CC BY-SA · the record · placed by its coordinates
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Bear Lake to Dream Lake (12867377104) · KimonBerlin · 2014 · 256 m from the crag's map point
Wikimedia Commons · CC BY-SA · the record · placed by its coordinates
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Rocky Mountain National Park (32757417087) · Nicolas Henderson from Coppell, Texas · 2018 · 257 m from the crag's map point
Wikimedia Commons · CC BY · the record · placed by its coordinates
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Nymph Lake, Rocky Mountain National Park (32757418557) · Nicolas Henderson from Coppell, Texas · 2018 · 259 m from the crag's map point
Wikimedia Commons · CC BY · the record · placed by its coordinates
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Nymph Lake, Rocky Mountain National Park (32757412367) · Nicolas Henderson from Coppell, Texas · 2018 · 271 m from the crag's map point
Wikimedia Commons · CC BY · the record · placed by its coordinates
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Nymph Lake in Rocky Mountain National Park · Andrew Russell · 2014 · 276 m from the crag's map point
Wikimedia Commons · CC BY · the record · placed by its coordinates
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Mushroom in Rocky Mountain National Park · Andrew Russell · 2014 · 287 m from the crag's map point
Wikimedia Commons · CC BY · the record · placed by its coordinates
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Fort Collins-Loveland, CO, CO, USA - panoramio (21) · olekinderhook · 2015 · 293 m from the crag's map point
Wikimedia Commons · CC BY · the record · placed by its coordinates
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18 more on Commons.

Routes

Also within 3 km

Straight line between the two crags' map points, each of which can be some way from its rock. For when this wall is full, or the sun has found it.

Photos from climbers

No photos here yet. If you're at the crag, yours would be the first.

Pick a photo from your camera roll rather than taking one here: a picture taken inside a browser usually has no location saved in it, and we check that the photo was taken at this crag before publishing it. Photos of guidebook pages and topos are refused — they're the author's work. By sending one you're letting us publish it.

Nobody reviews these before they appear, so anyone can report one and it's hidden straight away — including you, if you change your mind, and including a photographer who finds their own picture here.

Taken at the crag by climbers and published as they sent them. Each one's own location had to be within 0.5 km of this crag before we accepted it. See something that shouldn't be here? Use Report this photo under it and it's hidden at once. Anything else, write to us.

Sun today
sun 08:50-09:10, sun 09:20-10:10
Wall faces E (USGS elevation). Shade from the surrounding terrain is counted.
Deep terrain: the skyline averages 25° above horizontal, so the sun has to climb well clear of the rim before it reaches this wall.
Rain & forecast
0 mm of rain in the last 48 hours.
11-11 44°/31° · 0.0 mm · 31 mph · pm storms 0% 11-12 46°/29° · 0.0 mm · 12 mph · pm storms 0% 11-13 49°/28° · 0.0 mm · 22 mph · pm storms 0%
Open-Meteo, fetched 2026-11-11 18:40 UTC

Conditions reported

Nothing reported recently.

Report what you see

Reports are dated and fade on their own: wet rock after 3 days, a bad bolt after a year. No names, no text.

Access & safety

Emergency: call 911. Read out your location: Works without signal. If GPS fails, this crag's approximate map point is 40.31276 N, 105.65211 W (Bear Lake Trailheads). That point can be off by hundreds of metres, so say so.

The map point for this crag is on land managed by National Park Service (federal), in Rocky Mountain National Park. It lies inside wilderness area, national park.

Land manager from USGS PAD-US (public domain), read 2026-09-29. It is the manager of the crag's map point, which can be a long way from the wall. What you may do on the rock is the manager's to say, not ours.

Rules for all Rocky Mountain National Park land

Fees
A park entrance pass is required. $30 for one private vehicle for one day, $35 for seven days, or $70 for a park-specific annual pass.
Reservations
Timed entry reservations are required 22 May to 12 October 2026, 9 a.m. to 2 p.m. daily, and 5 a.m. to 6 p.m. for the Bear Lake Road corridor (to 18 October). They cover outlying areas including Longs Peak and Lumpy Ridge, not just the main road. $2 processing fee.
Permits
A timed entry reservation is separate from, and additional to, the entrance pass -- the park says a valid entrance pass is also required.

Read on Rocky Mountain National Park's own pages, checked 2026-09-29 by John Crawford. What they require, in full, or their own climbing page. These apply to the manager's whole holding; anything specific to this crag is above.

Nearby, from OpenStreetMap

Toilets
569 m away (map)
Mapped parking
680 m away (map)
Campsite
Sourdough Campsite, 2,576 m away (map)

Distances are a straight line from this crag's map point, which can itself be hundreds of metres off; a road may be much longer. Mapped by OpenStreetMap contributors (ODbL), so a toilet missing here may simply be unmapped. Parking here is what OSM has drawn nearby, not a guidebook's directions.

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