Staunton Rocks
171 routes and 2 boulder problems · granite (Pikes Peak Granite) · 9,114 ft
What's here
5.3 to 5.13, mostly around 5.10.
Counted from the 171 climbs here that carry a grade. Shown only where there are at least 5 of them — below that the shape is noise.
How well located
Position on wall known 170 Crag only 3
No route here has its own point yet. The map pin is the crag. At the wall? Survey it: 30 seconds per route.
The order of the climbs along this wall is known from the open catalogue, so a few surveys go a long way: standing at The Number of the Beast, Sugar Mama, Happy Endings, Ride Around the Block (4 climbs, about 120 seconds on Dungeon, The) would place up to 24 more climbs between them. Survey the wall →
“Up to” because the estimate between two surveyed routes is only used when they turn out to be close enough together on the ground.
Rock, from the geologic map
Fine-grained porphyritic phase. Mesoproterozoic, about 1,600 to 1,000 million years old.
Pink, fine- to medium-grained, massive porphyritic biotite granite with phenocrysts of spheroidal gray quartz, subhedral microcline, and oligoclase
This is the map unit under this crag's map point, read from the 1:100,000 sheet (Kellogg and others, 2008, USGS Geologic Investigations Series 3000). The point can be a few hundred metres from the rock, a cliff often stands on the line between two units, and at that scale a line on the map is about 100 m wide on the ground, so the wall itself may be the neighbouring unit. The rock named at the top of this page comes from the public geology of this area; this card is the map's answer. Every crag on this unit: Fine-grained porphyritic phase. Geology data: Macrostrat (CC BY 4.0), serving USGS and Colorado Geological Survey maps.
On the map since 1899
The USGS has mapped this ground since 1899. 19 historical sheets cover this crag's map point; the oldest is below.
USGS Historical Topographic Map Collection · Public domain · the record · placed by its coordinates
Report this item
Hidden as soon as you tell us, everywhere it appears, before anyone reviews it.
Public domain, U.S. Geological Survey. The sheet shows the ground as the survey found it then, which is why a trail or road you know may be missing. Every sheet over this point, 1899 to 1983: USGS topoView.
In print since 1877
1877 Geologic Map of Colorado (Hayden), high-resolution scan · F. V. Hayden; scan by the Colorado Geological Survey · 1877
Geological and geographical atlas of Colorado and portions of adjacent territory · F. V. Hayden, U.S. Geological and Geographical Survey of the Territories · 1877
Free to read: public domain or government work. About South Platte as a whole, not this wall. More in the reading room.
From the archives
Photographs of this area held by the Library of Congress, oldest first. Every one carries the Library's own "no known restrictions on publication"; anything else is left out.
Library of Congress, Prints & Photographs Division · Public domain · the record · indexed to this place by the archive
Report this item
Hidden as soon as you tell us, everywhere it appears, before anyone reviews it.
Library of Congress, Prints & Photographs Division · Public domain · the record · found by place name, not yet checked
Report this item
Hidden as soon as you tell us, everywhere it appears, before anyone reviews it.
Routes
1. King's Landing
- 1 Tyrion's Short Journey V0-
- 2 Ironborn (TR variation to Night King) 5.8
- 3 Night King 5.7
- 4 White Walker 5.4
- 5 Winter Is Coming 5.6
- 6 Dragonglass 5.8
- 7 Wildlings 5.6
- 8 Viserion 5.7
- 9 Khaleesi (variation to Viserion) 5.9-
- 10 Valyrian Steel 5.6
2. Canyon Amphitheater
- 1 Freemason 5.8
- 2 Mason Man 5.9
- 3 Planck Time 5.11b
- 4 Training Wheels 5.4
- 5 Captain Underpants 5.6
- 6 Grumpy Old Climber 5.4
- 7 The Cookie Thief 5.6
- 8 Follow That Thief 5.9+
- 9 Big Squirrels Don't Cry 5.9
- 10 Ricochet Rabbit 5.10d
- 11 Race Bannon 5.11d
3. Astronomy Wall
- 1 Io 5.9+
- 2 Restaurant At The End Of The Universe 5.10-
- 3 Dark Matter 5.9+
- 4 W.I.M.P. 5.11a
- 5 Footprints On The Moon 5.10b
- 6 Mr. Magnetar 5.10-
Aerie, The
- 1 Angle of Attack 5.12d
Bombardier Dome
- 1 Volo 5.9
- 2 Carpe Diem 5.10+
- 3 Veritas 5.11a
- 4 Seven Time Loser 5.7
- 5 Da Vinci's Robot 5.8
- 6 Goal Post Gully 5.5
Cascade Tower
- 1 I’m Back, Baby 5.10+
- 2 Clorashene 5.9
- 3 Better Than Folgers 5.9+
Cascades Wall, The
- 1 Solar Ridge 5.8
- 2 Coleman Direct 5.8+
- 3 Ancient Relics 5.10
- 4 Medusa Cascade 5.10b/c
- 5 Diva 5.7+
- 6 Who Haas Those Holds? 5.10+
- 7 Running Code 5.11a
- 8 Earn Money Sleeping 5.10a
Dungeon Tower, The
- 1 Silver Arrows 5.11d
- 2 Master Sword 5.12b
Dungeon, The
- 1 The Number of the Beast 5.11b
- 2 The Executioner 5.10
- 3 5000 Candles in the Wind 5.10a
- 4 Implements of Destruction 5.10+
- 5 The Uncertainty Principle 5.10
- 6 Unshackled 5.10+
- 7 Daedalus 5.12b/c
- 8 Waiting for the Sun 5.12a
- 9 Light My Fire 5.12a
- 10 Backdoor Man 5.12a
- 11 Dungeon Traverse 5.12a
- 12 Front Stoop 5.12b
- 13 Sugar Mama 5.13c
- 14 Tanuki 5.13b
- 15 If and Only If 5.13-
- 16 Zed's Dead 5.12+
- 17 Big Poppa 5.13d
- 18 Big Excuse (Link Up) 5.12c
- 19 No Poppa (Link Up) 5.13d
- 20 No Excuse 5.13b
- 21 Soaked in Sin 5.12d
- 22 Soaked in Intolerance (Link Up) 5.13a
- 23 Intolerance Test 5.13a
- 24 Branching Out 5.12d
- 25 Happy Endings 5.13a
- 26 New Beginnings 5.12b
- 27 Rat Dance 5.8-
- 28 Ride Around the Block 5.8+
Hemingway Wall
- 1 Six Toed Cats 5.7
- 2 The Sun Also Rises 5.7
- 3 For Whom the Bell Tolls 5.8
- 4 A Farewell to Arms 5.7
- 5 Growing Pains 5.7
Labyrinth, The
- 1 Uncontrived Mayhem 5.11a
- 2 Bomb Cyclone 5.10b
- 3 The Babe With Power 5.11a
- 4 Cave of Eternal Stench 5.9-
- 5 The Voodoo That You Do 5.7+
- 6 Cerberus 5.11b
- 7 Static Discharge 5.10a
Lower Tan Corridor
- 1 Bathtub Blues 5.10d
- 2 The Calling 5.10d
- 3 Ground Control to Major Tom 5.10a
- 4 The Jungle 5.10b/c
- 5 Layton is My Motor 5.10b
Marmot Tower
- 1 Marmot Tower Crack 5.9+
- 2 Baby Steps 5.9
- 3 Maybe the Marmot Ate Your Baby 5.5
- 4 The Marmot that Ate New York 5.8
- 5 The Book of Marmot 5.9+
- 6 One Toprope 5.10d
- 7 Raymond vs. the Taxidermist 5.10b/c
- 8 Two Toprope 5.8+
Overlook, The
- 1 The Overseer 5.11a
- 2 I Saw the Stars 5.11c
- 3 Overpressure 5.10d
- 4 Look Before You Leap 5.11a/b
- 5 Lookout! 5.11b
- 6 Beer Goggles 5.11b
- 7 Three's Company 5.12b/c
- 8 Look of the Devil 5.11b
- 9 Lookie-loo 5.12a
- 10 One Last Look 5.11a
- 11 Living Remotely 5.12b
- 12 Over It 5.12d
Park View Dome
- 1 Singing Chicken 5.6
- 2 Alpinista 5.6
- 3 Heads High 5.7
- 4 Hey Ranger! 5.5
- 5 Chase the Sky 5.7
- 6 Lost at Sea 5.5
- 7 Chicken Dance 5.5
- 8 Raisin’ in the Sun 5.6
- 9 Abert's 5.7
- 10 Heads Up 5.7
- 11 It’s Not Much of a Tail 5.7+
- 12 Carrion Climbing 5.7
- 13 Shared Illusions 5.7
- 14 Cathartes Aura 5.7
Permission Wall
- 1 Badges? We Don't Need No Stinkin' Badges 5.10+
- 2 Permission Granted 5.9
- 3 Rigidbody 5.9+
- 4 Elwood P. Dowd 5.10b/c
- 5 Toprope 5.9
- 6 Harvey 5.9
- 7 Wounded Knee 5.9
- 8 Rendition on Permission 5.10b/c
Ranch Hand, The
- 1 Corn Bread 5.6
- 2 Biscuits 'n' Gravy 5.4
- 3 Lonesome Dove, Angry Falcon 5.8
- 4 Lasso The Longhorn 5.7
- 5 Marmot Man 5.7
- 6 Waiting for the Summer Rain 5.10a
- 7 Shimmy Shimmy Strut Strut 5.7
- 8 A Face in the Crowd 5.10b
Upper Tan Corridor
- 1 Do The Kegel 5.10a
- 2 Never Named, No. 39 5.10a
- 3 Turkey Time 5.10-
- 4 Crushing My Gear to Climb 5.7
- 5 Chalkdust Tourture 5.10
- 6 Black and Tan 5.10d
- 7 80 Grit 5.10
- 8 Jerry the Gnome 5.10
- 9 Ginger Snap 5.10a
- 10 No Rain 5.10+
- 11 Rolling Black Out 5.11
- 12 Reef On It! 5.10-
- 13 Tickle My Blossom 5.11
- 14 Ddong Chim! 5.11b
- 15 The Opportunist 5.11a
- 16 No Opportunity Missed 5.11-
- 17 The Altruist 5.13a
- 18 Seasoned Forgiving 5.13a
- 19 Welcome to Staunton 5.12c
- 20 4 Finger Discount 5.12
- 21 Muricuh 5.12b/c
- 22 Three Bite Burrito 5.11a
- 23 Dark Knight 5.10
Whistle Pig, The
- 1 Marmot Queen 5.3
- 2 Gus 5.6
- 3 Phil 5.6
- 4 Maken Bacon 5.10a
- 5 Dr. Julius Strangepork, Pigs in Space 5.10
- 6 Mongolian Boodog 5.9+
Elsewhere at this crag
- Well Hungover 5.8-
- Daddy Can Climb V1
Also within 3 km
- The Red Wall576 m · 4 routes · 8,950 ft
- Old Mill Area797 m · 35 routes · 9,441 ft
- Never Winter Wall828 m · 16 routes · 9,152 ft
- Mason Jar1,091 m · 1 route · 9,466 ft
- Elk Creek Spires1,920 m · 8 routes · 8,933 ft
- Beyond Authority1,938 m · 10 routes · 9,299 ft
Straight line between the two crags' map points, each of which can be some way from its rock. For when this wall is full, or the sun has found it.
Photos from climbers
No photos here yet. If you're at the crag, yours would be the first.
Taken at the crag by climbers and published as they sent them. Each one's own location had to be within 0.5 km of this crag before we accepted it. See something that shouldn't be here? Use Report this photo under it and it's hidden at once. Anything else, write to us.
Conditions reported
Nothing reported recently.
Report what you see
Reports are dated and fade on their own: wet rock after 3 days, a bad bolt after a year. No names, no text.
Access & safety
The map point for this crag is on land managed by Colorado Parks & Wildlife (state), in Staunton State Park. It lies inside state park.
Worth checking first. PAD-US records public access to this unit as “closed” (according to CNHP COMaP, 2016). That is about getting onto the unit at all, not about climbing, and we have not checked it against Colorado Parks & Wildlife's own page.
Land manager from USGS PAD-US (public domain), read 2026-09-29. It is the manager of the crag's map point, which can be a long way from the wall. What you may do on the rock is the manager's to say, not ours.
Rules for all Colorado Parks & Wildlife land
- Fees
- Every Colorado state park requires an entrance pass for motor vehicles. A daily vehicle pass is $4 to $17 depending on the park; an individual pass covers entry on foot or bike.
- Reservations
- Eldorado Canyon runs timed-entry vehicle reservations on summer weekends and holidays; see the park's own page. Other parks do not require one to enter.
- Permits
- A daily pass is valid until noon on the day after purchase. The annual Keep Colorado Wild pass is $29 and is bought with a vehicle registration.
Read on Colorado Parks & Wildlife's own pages, checked 2026-09-29 by John Crawford. What they require, in full, or their own climbing page. These apply to the manager's whole holding; anything specific to this crag is above.
Nearby, from OpenStreetMap
- Toilets
- 748 m away (map)
- Mapped parking
- 780 m away (map)
- Campsite
- Ponderosa Loop, 2,167 m away (map)
Distances are a straight line from this crag's map point, which can itself be hundreds of metres off; a road may be much longer. Mapped by OpenStreetMap contributors (ODbL), so a toilet missing here may simply be unmapped. Parking here is what OSM has drawn nearby, not a guidebook's directions.
Keep Deep Cut Guide free
No ads, no paywall, no account. You can chip in directly to help keep it running.