The Dark Side
106 boulder problems · sandstone (Fountain Formation) · 5,971 ft
What's here
V0 to V10, mostly around V1.
Counted from the 105 climbs here that carry a grade. Shown only where there are at least 5 of them — below that the shape is noise.
How well located
Base placed (one source) 1 Position on wall known 82 Crag only 23
The order of the climbs along this wall is known from the open catalogue, so a few surveys go a long way: standing at Triangle Slab, Tree Slab Dyno, Evian (3 climbs, about 90 seconds on Squirming Coil Area) would place up to 12 more climbs between them. Survey the wall →
“Up to” because the estimate between two surveyed routes is only used when they turn out to be close enough together on the ground.
The guidebook for this area
Colorado Bouldering: Front Range - Phillip Benningfield, Matt Samet - 2020 every crag it covers
From the publisherBookshop.org
Bookshop.org links are affiliate links: if you buy through one we earn a commission, at no extra cost to you. Bookshop.org gives its profits to independent bookshops.
The book has the topos, the descriptions and the local knowledge this page can't. Buying it helps support the people who know the crag best.
Rock, from the geologic map
Dakota Group. Cretaceous, about 122 to 97 million years old.
Consists of an upper interbedded sandstone and shale unit (the South Platte Formation) about 61 to 91 m thick, and a lower conglomeratic sandstone formation (the Lytle Formation) about 12 to 24 m thick. Forms the most prominent hogback ridge along the mountain front, the so-called “Dakota hogback.” The South Platte Formation contains refractory clay.
This is the map unit under this crag's map point, read from the 1:100,000 sheet (Trimble and others, 2003, U.S. Geological Survey Geologic Investigations Series I-856-H). The point can be a few hundred metres from the rock, a cliff often stands on the line between two units, and at that scale a line on the map is about 100 m wide on the ground, so the wall itself may be the neighbouring unit. The rock named at the top of this page comes from the public geology of this area; this card is the map's answer. Every crag on this unit: Dakota Group. Geology data: Macrostrat (CC BY 4.0), serving USGS and Colorado Geological Survey maps.
On the map since 1899
The USGS has mapped this ground since 1899. 25 historical sheets cover this crag's map point; the oldest is below.
USGS Historical Topographic Map Collection · Public domain · the record · placed by its coordinates
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Public domain, U.S. Geological Survey. The sheet shows the ground as the survey found it then, which is why a trail or road you know may be missing. Every sheet over this point, 1899 to 1983: USGS topoView.
Photographs near this crag
Taken within 1.5 km of this crag's map point and published under a licence that lets us show them, from Wikimedia Commons. The coordinates say where the camera was, not what it was pointed at, so some of these will be the creek or the trail rather than the rock.
Wikimedia Commons · CC0 · the record · placed by its coordinates
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Hidden as soon as you tell us, everywhere it appears, before anyone reviews it.
Wikimedia Commons · CC BY-SA · the record · placed by its coordinates
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Hidden as soon as you tell us, everywhere it appears, before anyone reviews it.
Wikimedia Commons · Public domain · the record · placed by its coordinates
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Hidden as soon as you tell us, everywhere it appears, before anyone reviews it.
Wikimedia Commons · Public domain · the record · placed by its coordinates
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Hidden as soon as you tell us, everywhere it appears, before anyone reviews it.
Wikimedia Commons · Public domain · the record · placed by its coordinates
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Hidden as soon as you tell us, everywhere it appears, before anyone reviews it.
Wikimedia Commons · CC BY-SA · the record · placed by its coordinates
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Hidden as soon as you tell us, everywhere it appears, before anyone reviews it.
Wikimedia Commons · CC BY-SA · the record · placed by its coordinates
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Hidden as soon as you tell us, everywhere it appears, before anyone reviews it.
Wikimedia Commons · CC BY-SA · the record · placed by its coordinates
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Hidden as soon as you tell us, everywhere it appears, before anyone reviews it.
Wikimedia Commons · CC BY-SA · the record · placed by its coordinates
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Hidden as soon as you tell us, everywhere it appears, before anyone reviews it.
Wikimedia Commons · CC BY-SA · the record · placed by its coordinates
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Hidden as soon as you tell us, everywhere it appears, before anyone reviews it.
Wikimedia Commons · CC BY · the record · placed by its coordinates
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Hidden as soon as you tell us, everywhere it appears, before anyone reviews it.
Wikimedia Commons · CC BY · the record · placed by its coordinates
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Hidden as soon as you tell us, everywhere it appears, before anyone reviews it.
14 more on Commons.
Routes
Arrowhead Arete Area
- 1 Sweet Nectar aka Meet George Jetson V4
- 2 Sour Apple V2
- 3 Crescent Toes V1
- 4 Low Hanging Melons V2
- 5 Big Kid Tantrum V3-4
- 6 Unknown V4 V4
- 7 Corner Crack Left of Arrowhead Arete V2
- 8 Arrowhead Arete Stand V7
- 9 Arrowhead Arete Low V9
- 10 Arrowhead Arete (SDS) V10
- 11 Arrowhead Finger Crack V1
Cube Area, The
- 1 Deal Jams V1+
- 2 Deal Jams Sit V5
- 3 Done Deal Dyno V3
- 4 Southeast Arete V4
- 5 God Created Crimps V5-
- 6 In the Beginning V1
- 7 Breashear's Crack II V3
- 8 Squeezed V3
- 9 From Here Or There V2
Dasani Area
- 1 No Laughing Matter V0
- 2 Mr. Wiggles and Mr. Giggles V1-
- 3 Dasani V5-6
- 4 Coaches Corner V9
- 5 Coaches' Direct V10
- 6 Bubba Direct V6
- 7 Call You V0
- 8 South End V2
- 9 Cling Free V5
- 10 The Trainer V0-1
- 11 Free Hang V1+
- 12 F*n Lucky V4-5
MoSo Area
- 1 Left Arete V5
- 2 Blood Moon V3+
- 3 Mosquito Frito V2-
- 4 MoSo Roof V3-4
- 5 Hall & Oates V8
- 6 Maneater V4+
Rock Staircase Area
- 1 Center Route V3
- 2 Super Slab V2
- 3 Easy Cracks V0
- 4 Little Ledges V2-
- 5 Path of Most Resistance V3+
Schoolyard Area
- 1 Unknown/The South V4
- 2 Proper English V2-
- 3 Dionysian Ecstasy V7
Squirming Coil Area
- 1 Triangle Slab V0
- 2 Animal Control V0-1
- 3 Left Arete V1
- 4 Contrivance V4
- 5 Left Finger Traverse V2
- 6 Bearded Lady (aka Hand Crack) V1-2
- 7 Phish out of Water V10-11
- 8 Squirming Coil V5
- 9 *Unknown* Right of Squirming Coil V3
- 10 The Slapper V5-6
- 11 Double Arete V5
- 12 Straight Up Now, Tell Me V2
- 13 Tree Slab Dyno V2
- 14 Unknown -Warm up (The Jake) V1
- 15 Evian V3
Tofurkey Area
- 1 Veggie Burger Arete V1
- 2 Corner V0
- 3 Southwest Slots V3+
- 4 Southeast Arete V5
- 5 Tofurkey Variation V1-
- 6 Tofurkey V1
Warm-up Traverse Area
- 1 Left Crack V1-2
- 2 Gypsy Devil V1
- 3 Rite of the Devil V4
- 4 The Left Crack V0
- 5 Offwidth V1
- 6 Part of A Warmup Traverse V1+
- 7 Warmup Pockets V0
- 8 Blocky Overhang V1-2
- 9 Duo V5-6
- 10 Terribilitá V4+
- 11 Slots V4+
- 12 Slots Traverse V7
- 13 Tyson's Fury V8
- 14 Face Right of High Gravity V2+
- 15 Finger Ladder V1-2
Elsewhere at this crag
- Arrowhead Arete? (submitted as Unknown2) V?
- Authenticity V2
- Back of the Arrow Arete V1
- Balancing Act V4
- Cannibal Girl V4-5
- Chumps Overhang V3
- Finger Bars Traverse V1
- Funky Groove V0
- Funky Slab V1-
- Ice Truck Killer V3-
- Known Secret V8
- Little Block Heelhook Traverse V2
- Return to Dirt V7-
- Rupture V6
- Super Phun Thyme V3
- The Doubloon V6
- The Doubloon Sit V8
- The Riddler V5-6
- Tornado V6-7
- Unknown Roof Problem V3
- Watch Your Back V2
- Wave Hugging V4
- Where is My Gummy Bear? (what my daughter called it) V3
- Wood Hook V6-7
Also within 3 km
- Magnum Block163 m · 8 boulder problems · 5,732 ft
- Sailor's Delight Block163 m · 2 boulder problems · 5,732 ft
- The Black Hole194 m · 1 route and 29 boulder problems · 5,792 ft
- The Lobby200 m · 18 boulder problems · 5,790 ft
- 5.8 Boulder232 m · 5 boulder problems · 5,832 ft
- The Cockpit232 m · 4 boulder problems · 5,845 ft
Straight line between the two crags' map points, each of which can be some way from its rock. For when this wall is full, or the sun has found it.
Photos from climbers
No photos here yet. If you're at the crag, yours would be the first.
Taken at the crag by climbers and published as they sent them. Each one's own location had to be within 0.5 km of this crag before we accepted it. See something that shouldn't be here? Use Report this photo under it and it's hidden at once. Anything else, write to us.
Conditions reported
Nothing reported recently.
Report what you see
Reports are dated and fade on their own: wet rock after 3 days, a bad bolt after a year. No names, no text.
Access & safety
The map point for this crag is on land managed by Jefferson County Open Space (local government), in Mount Glennon. It lies inside local park.
The boundary is close. Land managed by Denver Water Board comes within 250 m of this point, and the point is not the rock — the wall itself may be on the other side of the line. Check which before you rely on either one's rules.
Land manager from USGS PAD-US (public domain), read 2026-09-29. It is the manager of the crag's map point, which can be a long way from the wall. What you may do on the rock is the manager's to say, not ours.
Rules for all Jefferson County Parks & Open Space land
- Climbing permit
- Installing fixed hardware on a new route requires a permit: a Fixed Hardware Application, vetted by the Fixed Hardware Review Committee before the Climbing Committee decides.
- Hours
- Unlawful to be on Open Space land from one hour after sunset to one hour before sunrise, unless posted otherwise.
- Rules
- JCPOS does not install, maintain or inspect hardware related to rock climbing. Climbing ethics differ by park -- Clear Creek Canyon, the Cathedral Spires and the South Platte each have their own published guidelines.
- Overnight
- Camping by advance permit only, obtained online at least 24 hours ahead -- not at the park, headquarters or by phone. Only White Ranch and Reynolds Parks, tent-only.
- Dogs
- Dogs must be on a leash ten feet or less in length and under physical control.
Read on Jefferson County Parks & Open Space's own pages, checked 2026-09-29 by John Crawford. What they require, in full, or their own climbing page. These apply to the manager's whole holding; anything specific to this crag is above.
Approach trail, from Jefferson County
An unnamed climber-access trail in Mount Glennon passes 77 m from this crag's map point. The county rates it most difficult. Pets: yes.
A segment the county flags as climber access, drawn on the Take me there map. Where it leaves the trail for the base of the wall is the guidebook's to say, not ours.
Nearby, from OpenStreetMap
- Toilets
- 990 m away (map)
- Mapped parking
- 214 m away (map)
Distances are a straight line from this crag's map point, which can itself be hundreds of metres off; a road may be much longer. Mapped by OpenStreetMap contributors (ODbL), so a toilet missing here may simply be unmapped. Parking here is what OSM has drawn nearby, not a guidebook's directions.
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