Morning Glory Wall
27 routes · Rocks of Montezuma stock and vicinity, Monzogranite porphyry · 9,607 ft
What's here
5.7 to 5.11, with no single grade dominating.
Counted from the 27 climbs here that carry a grade. Shown only where there are at least 5 of them — below that the shape is noise.
How well located
Position on wall known 27
No route here has its own point yet. The map pin is the crag. At the wall? Survey it: 30 seconds per route.
The order of the climbs along this wall is known from the open catalogue, so a few surveys go a long way: standing at Old Trad Crack, Ants in My Shoe, There's a Bear! Where? Right There!, Dingo, Dango, Dyno (4 climbs, about 120 seconds) would place up to 23 more climbs between them. Survey the wall →
“Up to” because the estimate between two surveyed routes is only used when they turn out to be close enough together on the ground.
Rock, from the geologic map
Rocks of Montezuma stock and vicinity, Monzogranite porphyry. Eocene, about 56 to 34 million years old.
Light-tan to gray, medium-grained, porphyritic, alkali-calcic monzogranite and granodiorite with euhedral to subhedral phenocrysts of orthoclase and quartz. Chemical composition indicates alkali-calcic granodiorite (Ed Dewitt, written commun., 2007). Orthoclase phenocrysts form as much as 20 percent of rock and are locally reported as long as 10 cm (Lovering, 1935). Quartz phenocrysts form as much as 10 percent of rock and are commonly partially resorbed. Matrix contains orthoclase, plagioclase, quartz, as much as 3 percent biotite, and trace amounts of hornblende, magnetite, and sphene. Locally includes light-pink aplite dikes (bma) not mapped separately. Includes several small intrusive bodies near Montezuma stock. Zircon fission-track ages between 39.8±4.2 and 34.8±3.7 Ma (Bookstrom and others, 1987); Cunningham and others (1994) reported a zircon fission-track age of 35.0±3.2 Ma; one K-Ar age is 37.0±1.4 Ma (Marvin and others, 1989)
This is the map unit under this crag's map point, read from the 1:100,000 sheet (Kellogg and others, 2008, USGS Geologic Investigations Series 3000). The point can be a few hundred metres from the rock, a cliff often stands on the line between two units, and at that scale a line on the map is about 100 m wide on the ground, so the wall itself may be the neighbouring unit. Every crag on this unit: Rocks of Montezuma stock and vicinity, Monzogranite porphyry. Geology data: Macrostrat (CC BY 4.0), serving USGS and Colorado Geological Survey maps.
On the map since 1924
The USGS has mapped this ground since 1924. 33 historical sheets cover this crag's map point; the oldest is below.
USGS Historical Topographic Map Collection · Public domain · the record · placed by its coordinates
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Hidden as soon as you tell us, everywhere it appears, before anyone reviews it.
Public domain, U.S. Geological Survey. The sheet shows the ground as the survey found it then, which is why a trail or road you know may be missing. Every sheet over this point, 1924 to 1983: USGS topoView.
Routes
- 1 Old Trad Crack 5.9
- 2 Drill 'em and Fill 'em 5.10a
- 3 Nothin' Butt a Thang! 5.9
- 4 Nothin' Butt a Rainy Day Thang 5.9
- 5 Nemesis 5.10d
- 6 Gone Fishing 5.7
- 7 Church of Climbintology 5.10-
- 8 Rico Suave Made Me Do It 5.9-
- 9 Slabsters Lament 5.10b
- 10 Disco Boy 5.9
- 11 Amazing Feets of Glory 5.10b/c
- 12 Ian’s Route #2 5.7+
- 13 Ants in My Shoe 5.8
- 14 Temptation of the Left Layback 5.11
- 15 UnBearably Yellow Spider 5.10c
- 16 Chris Wilson Made Me Do It 5.8
- 17 Smokey Bear Sidepull 5.9+
- 18 Baby Bear Layback 5.9+
- 19 The Tree Sawga 5.10b
- 20 Jerr Bear's Final Lick 5.11b
- 21 Bear Down On It! 5.10a
- 22 Teddy Bear Two Step 5.10b
- 23 Bear Minimum 5.9-
- 24 Bearington Bear Goes Boltin' 5.8+
- 25 There's a Bear! Where? Right There! 5.11a
- 26 Fingerbanger 5.9+
- 27 Dingo, Dango, Dyno 5.10a
Also within 3 km
- Zuma Rock371 m · 13 routes · 9,626 ft · Zuma Rock
- Humming Bird Boulder No. 2 (Tim's Finn)431 m · 1 route and 1 boulder problem · 9,544 ft · Hummingbird Boulders
- Alpenglow Satellite Wall438 m · 1 route · 9,548 ft · Alpenglow Satellite Wall
- Trail Boulder519 m · 4 boulder problems · 9,712 ft · Hummingbird Boulders
- Hero Boulder533 m · 4 boulder problems · 9,743 ft · Hummingbird Boulders
- Main Boulder, Hummingbird Boulders548 m · 6 routes and 4 boulder problems · 9,813 ft · Hummingbird Boulders
Straight line between the two crags' map points, each of which can be some way from its rock. For when this wall is full, or the sun has found it.
Photos from climbers
No photos here yet. If you're at the crag, yours would be the first.
Taken at the crag by climbers and published as they sent them. Each one's own location had to be within 0.5 km of this crag before we accepted it. See something that shouldn't be here? Use Report this photo under it and it's hidden at once. Anything else, write to us.
Conditions reported
Nothing reported recently.
Report what you see
Reports are dated and fade on their own: wet rock after 3 days, a bad bolt after a year. No names, no text.
Access & safety
We don't know who manages this ground: PAD-US doesn't map this point as protected land, which most often means it is private. Find out whose it is before you go.
Nobody has yet read the land manager's own rules for this crag and written them down here, so treat the above as where you are, not as what you may do.
Nearby, from OpenStreetMap
- Mapped parking
- 884 m away (map)
- Campsite
- Unnamed, 4,591 m away (map)
Distances are a straight line from this crag's map point, which can itself be hundreds of metres off; a road may be much longer. Mapped by OpenStreetMap contributors (ODbL), so a toilet missing here may simply be unmapped. Parking here is what OSM has drawn nearby, not a guidebook's directions.
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